My youngest grandson has a love for sea creatures. He particularly loves turtles. That’s why I recently made him 3 crocheted stuffed turtles. He loves them!
These turtles are pretty easy to make. The top shell is made with a hexagon shaped African flower in 4 colors. The bottom shell or the turtle’s tummy is the same flower done in 1 color. Then all you need is to make the head and the legs which are stitched on the bottom shell.
For my grandson’s turtles I used the same 4 color combination, I just changed up the arrangement to make each turtle unique. Each turtle’s tummy is the African flower done in the color used on the last rounds of the top shell. I coordinated the head and legs with the top shell round that is done in the same color, in this case the single round used to edge the flower petals.
I used 2 shades of green and beige as main colors and orange as the flower’s center as an accent color. The orange really brightens up the turtles. But you can you any color you want, I bet pink and purple would make a nice turtle too!
The turtles are pretty easy to make, it took me just a couple of hours to make each one. But the first step in making them is making the African flower hexagon pieces. Once you got those done the rest is just rounds of increasing and decreasing single crochets.
So I’ll give you the pattern for the African flower using 4 different colors you can adapt it to use however many colors you will be using. Then I’ll give you the patter for the head and the arms. Once you have those done you can stuff them, stitch them together, then embroider on the eyes and mouth. I used french knots for the eyes and back stitched the smiling mouth. You can sew on plastic googly eyes or button for the eye, I choose not to as my grandson is only 1 year old and buttons or google eyes are a choking hazard if they get pulled off the turtle.
I used a 5.5 mm crochet hook or “I” hook; #4 medium yarn, and a yarn needle. The head and legs are made in rounds so using stitch markers to mark the end/beginning of the rounds is helpful.
So here’s the pattern for these adorable stuffed turtles.
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Supplies:
5.5mm or “I” Gauge Crochet Hook
#4 Medium weight yarn in the colors of your choice
Polyfill for stuffing
Yarn Needle
African Flower Hexagon
First Flower Hexagon is made in Single Color for the turtle’s tummy
*CH 3 at the beginning of each round counts as the 1st DC of that round
Color 1 – CH 4; join last chain to 1 chain with a slip stitch to form a ring
Rd. 1 – All stitches in will be worked in the ring. CH 3 (counts as first DC), DC, CH 1; *2 DC, CH 1*, repeat * to * 4 times; Sl St to top of CH 3 at the beginning of the round. You will have 6 groups of 2DC with CH space between each group.
Rd. 2 – Work in the 1st. CH 1 Space in previous round CH 3, DC, CH 2, 2 DC, CH 1; *in next CH 1 Space work 2 DC, CH 2, 2 DC, CH 1*, Repeat *to* 4 times; Sl St to top of CH 3 at the beginning of the round. You will have 6 groups of (2 DC, CH 2, 2 DC) with a CH space between each group. These groups are the bottom part of your flower petals.
Rd. 3 – Work in the first CH 2 space of the previous round CH 3, 6 DC, CH 1; *in next CH 2 Space work 7 DC, CH 1* Repeat *to* 4 times. Change to Color 3. You will have 6 clusters of 7 DC in each CH 2 space. These clusters are the tops of your flower petals.
Rd. 4 – This is the row that edges each petal made in Rd. 2 & 3. It is worked in SC with a long SC between each petal. Starting at the side of any petal work SC around the petal ( 7 SC) when you reach the CH 1 Space which from Rd. 2 & 3, insert the hook into the the CH 1 space in Rd. 2 and pull up a loop; yarn over and pull thru both loops to complete your long SC. Continue to work 7 SC in each petal cluster and long SC between petals. Sl St to SC at the beginning of the round.
Rd. 5 – CH 3, DC in next 2 St, in next St work (DC, CH 2, DC) (1st. corner of the hexagon), * DC in next 7 St, (DC, CH 2, DC) in next st * Repeat from * to * around ending with a DC in the last 4 st after the 6 corner is worked. Fasten off and set aside.
Now make the 2nd. Flower hexagon using 4 colors for the top shell.
*CH 3 at the beginning of each round counts as the 1st DC of that round
Color 1 – CH 4; join last chain to 1 chain with a slip stitch to form a ring
Rd. 1 – All stitches in will be worked in the ring. CH 3 (counts as first DC), DC, CH 1; *2 DC, CH 1*, repeat * to * 4 times; Sl St to top of CH 3 at the beginning of the round. You will have 6 groups of 2DC with CH space between each group. Change to Color 2
Rd. 2 – Work in the 1st. CH 1 Space in previous round CH 3, DC, CH 2, 2 DC, CH 1; *in next CH 1 Space work 2 DC, CH 2, 2 DC, CH 1*, Repeat *to* 4 times; Sl St to top of CH 3 at the beginning of the round. You will have 6 groups of (2 DC, CH 2, 2 DC) with a CH space between each group. These groups are the bottom part of your flower petals.
Rd. 3 – Work in the first CH 2 space of the previous round CH 3, 6 DC, CH 1; *in next CH 2 Space work 7 DC, CH 1* Repeat *to* 4 times. Change to Color 3. You will have 6 clusters of 7 DC in each CH 2 space. These clusters are the tops of your flower petals.
Rd. 4 – This is the row that edges each petal made in Rd. 2 & 3. It is worked in SC with a long SC between each petal. Starting at the side of any petal work SC around the petal ( 7 SC) when you reach the CH 1 Space which from Rd. 2 & 3, insert the hook into the the CH 1 space in Rd. 2 and pull up a loop; yarn over and pull thru both loops to complete your long SC. Continue to work 7 SC in each petal cluster and long SC between petals. Sl St to SC at the beginning of the round. Change to Color 4.
Rd. 5 – CH 3, DC in next 2 St, in next St work (DC, CH 2, DC) (1st. corner of the hexagon), * DC in next 7 St, (DC, CH 2, DC) in next st * Repeat from * to * around ending with a DC in the last 4 st after the 6 corner is worked.
Rd. 6 – CH 3, DC in each st until you reach the 1st. corner, make 1 DC in the CH 2 Space of Rd. 5; DC in each st to next corner, make 1 DC in CH 2 Space of Rd. 5; Continue around and Sl St to top of CH 3 at the beginning of the round. DO NOT Fasten off. (The hexagon should cup a bit giving it a bit of height)
Rd. 7 – Place Belly hexagon on top of the Top Shell Hexagon wrong sides together. Join top and bottom hexagons together by making a round of SC, hook should go thru Round 6 of top shell and Round 5 of belly hexagon. Stuff before ending Rd. 7. Join with Sl St to beginning SC of the round.
Ruffle Round – *(CH 3, DC) in first st of Rd. 7, Skip 1 st, sl st in next st*. Repeat this pattern all the way around. Sl St to bottom of CH 3 at the beginning of the round. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Head & Legs
The head and legs are made in rounds, do not join after each round. Using a stitch marker is helpful to keep track of rounds.
Head – Make 1
Make a magic circle – the first round is worked in the circle
Rd. 1 – 6 SC in the circle
Rd. 2 – 2 SC in each SC around (12 SC)
Rd. 3 – *2 SC in next SC, 1 SC in next * repeat around (18 SC)
Rd. 4 & 5 – SC in each SC around (18 SC per round)
Rd. 6 – 2 SC in next SC, 1 SC in the next 2 SC; repeat pattern around (24 SC)
Rd. 7 – SC in each SC around (24 SC)
Rd. 8 – dec SC over next 2 SC, 1 SC in the next 2 SC; repeat pattern around (18 SC)
Rd. 9 & 10 – SC in each SC around (18 SC per round)
Rd. 11 – dec SC over next 2 SC, 1 SC in next 2 SC; repeat pattern around (12 SC)
Rd. 12 to 14 – SC in each SC around (12 SC per round)
Stuff and close opening by pressing both sides together and making 5 SC across. Leave long tail for sewing head on to body.
Leg – Make 4
Make a magic circle
Rd. 1 – 6 SC in circle
Rd. 2 – 2 SC in each SC (12 SC)
Rd. 3 – 2 SC in next SC, SC in next: repeat pattern around (18 SC)
Rd. 4 to 6 – SC in each SC around (18 SC per round)
Rd. 7 – Dec SC over next 2 SC, SC in next SC; repeat pattern around (12 SC)
Rd. 8 & 9 – SC in each SC around (12 SC per round)
Stuff with polyfil
Rd. 10 – Dec over next 2 SC, SC in next SC; repeat pattern around (8 SC)
Rd. 11 – SC around (8 SC)
Close opening by pressing both sides together and making 3 SC across. Leave long tail for sewing legs on to body.
Assembling
Stitch head and legs on to body. Refer to the picture below for placement.
Rugs are a great addition to any room. I feel that they tie the room together. That’s one of the reasons I almost always throw some kind of rug into every room, including my newly redecorated craft room/office. For that room I made this Crocheted Rug using the colors that I have in the room. By the way rugs are also a great way to hid stains on your flooring!
I made this Crocheted Rug for my craft room mostly to hide spots on the carpet, but also to tie the room together. It’s super easy to make and is a great project for beginners. I used the colors that coordinated with the canvas bins I use to store supplies.
The whole Crocheted Rug is made with Half Double Crochet stitches and the first row is a foundation HDC. I love using the Foundation HDC on larger projects. I feel that it shortens the time and the work because instead of making a very long chain then HDC stitches across you do both the chain and HDC at the same time. If you’r not familiar with the Foundation HDC check out this Youtube video to learn how to make it.
Once you make the foundation stitches the rest of the rugs is done in HDC except the row with the spaces in between. That one is made with HDC with 2 chains in between to make up the spaces.
To keep count of the number of rows you’ve done I recommend using row markers. I find for projects like this Crocheted Rug the markers make it easier to know where you left off or if for whatever reason you need to redo a row.
When you’re done with the rug you must block it before adding the fringes. Of course you don’t really have to add the fringes but I think add the finishing touches to the Crocheted Rug.
The Pattern is below or if you want a printable version click here!
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Crocheted Rug
Medium weight 4 yarn in 4 colors of your choice
Crochet Hook Size I or 5.5 mm
Finished size is 39” x 21” without fringes
Row 1: 1st color (white) foundation HDC, the first 2 ch counts as first HDC , make 70 HDC total, turn
Row 2-3: ch 2 ( counts as first St), HDC across, 70 HDC, turn
Row 4: ch 2, HDC in next 14 st, change to 2nd color (Gray) and HDC in rest of st, 70 HDC – place marker if you want
Row 5- 14: repeat row 2
Row 15: ch 2, HDC in next 18 st, change to 3rd color (hot pink) and HDC in rest of st, 70 HDC – place marker if you want
Row 16 – 18: repeat row 2
Row 19: ch 5 ( counts as first st and first ch 1 space), sk 1 st, (for this first st it will look like you are skipping 2 because the ch 5 you just did is first st) *tr in next st, ch 1, sk next st*, repeat ** across, ending with tr, turn (35 tr and 34 ch 1 spaces)
Row 20: ch 2 counts as 1 HDC, HDC 1st tr, HDC in ch 1 sp, HDC in each tr and ch 1 sp across, ending with HDC on top of ch 5 on row 19, 70 HDC
Row 21: repeat row 2
Row 22: ch 2, HDC across until the last 6 st in row, change to 4th color (light pink), turn, 70 HDC
Row 23- 27: repeat row 2
Row 28: ch 2; HDC in next 24 st, change to 1 st color (white), HDC in remaining st, 70 HDC
Row 29 – 30: repeat row 2
Row 31: ch 2, HDC next 19 st, change to 2nd color (Gray), HDC in remaining st, turn, 70 HDC
ROW 32-37: repeat row 2
Row 38: ch 2, HDC in 57 st, change to 3rd color (hot pink), HDC in remaining st, turn 70 HDC
Row 39-41: repeat row 2
Row 42- 43: repeat row 19 and 20
Row 44-45: repeat row 2
Row 46: ch 2, HDC in next 40 st, change to 4th color (light pink), HDC in remaking st, turn, 70 HDC
Row 47 – 51: repeat row 2
Row 52: ch 2, HDC across until you reach last 12 st, change to 1st color (white), HDC to end, turn, 70 HDC
Row 53 – 54: repeat row 2
Row 55: ch 2, HDC in next 57 st, change to 2nd color (Gray), turn, 70 HDC
Row 56 – 62: repeat row 2
Row 63: ch 2, HDC in next 20 st, change to 3rd color (hot pink), HDC in remaining st, turn, 70 HDC
Row 64 – 65: repeat row 2
Row 66- 67: repeat row 19 and 20
Row 68 – 69: repeat row 2
Row 70: ch 2, HDC in next 49 st, change to 4th coLor (light pink), HDC in remaining st, turn, 70 HDC
Row 71 – 75: repeat row 2
Row 76: ch 2, HDC in next 30 st, change to 1st color (White), HDC in remaining st, turn, 70 HDC
Row 77 – 78: Repeat row 2
Row 79: ch 2, HDC in next 18 st, change to 2nd color (Gray), HDC in remaining st, turn, 70 HDC
Row 80 – 88: repeat row 2. Fasten off at the end of row 85
Block
Add fringes on both ends
If you love this Crocheted Rug like we do and made one for your room share a picture with us. We’d love to see your rug!
May the Fourth be with you! Today is, you guessed it, Star Wars Day! Disney’s acquisition of the Star Wars franchise back in 2012 pretty much ensured that there will be many more Star Wars films in our future. Along with installments of the final trilogy of the Star Wars saga we’ve been treated to a couple of stand alone movies such as Solo and Rogue One. Of course this has sparked a new generation’s interest in the franchise and is creating many new fans.
The new Star Wars movies have sparked lots of conversations and speculations in our family, such as “is Rey somehow how related to Luke and Leia?” or “who is Finn? Is he Landau’s son?”. I’m sure these conversations are occurring in many households, after all every household has at least one Star Wars fan, right?
As a rule Star Wars has always been popular pretty much since it first opened 40 years ago. But the new movies make the Star Wars franchise soar to even higher levels. Specially given that Disney now owns it and has been marketing each movie months before they premier.
This past Christmas we ran into many Star Wars toys, puzzles, shirts, and other merchandise. In fact we bought some for the boys. I thought with the renewed popularity of Star Wars it would be a great idea to round up a few crochet ideas for Star Wars themed projects. There are many out there!
This article contains affiliate links.
So if you’re a big Star Wars fan, or knows someone who is, these ideas will come in handy.
If you don’t want such a big project this cute Yoda Coffee Cup Cozy from Unwrapping Mommy is a quick project. All Star Wars fans will love it! Click here for pattern.
Here’s a cute Yoda baby blanket to go with the hat by Alu Ka on Ravelry. (They call it a blanket, I would call it a snuggly) Whatever you call it, it’s still super cute! Click here for pattern.
Last year my toddler grandson, Jett, dressed up as a “Chick Magnet”; I made him a chick costume and his parents made him a “magnet” to carry around or wear around his waist. This costume earned him an honorable mention in their local costume contest.
This year in keeping with this play on words we decided to dress him up as “Eye Candy”. The eye part was easy, but it took us a while to decide what type of candy he should be and what it should be made of. In the end we thought candy corn was appropriate for a little boy and that a crocheted sweater will work instead of the sack dresses we saw online, those were just too girly.
So I crocheted him a hat, which he could actually wear any time with or without the “eye” and this sweater. I show the fringe on the hat both braided and unbraided, either way is cute. The sweater can be worn later by removing the “eyes” or even for Thanksgiving by replacing the “eyes” with a turkey applique.
The pattern I have here is for a size 2T sweater and a child’s hat that will fit a 20″ head circumference.
I used a large hook size so it didn’t take long to make.
Hat:
Hook Size K 6.50mm
#4 yarn in Yellow, Orange, White, Black, Brown, Gray
2ch counts as 1 hdc.
Ch 2 with white
Rd. 1: 7 sc in 2nd. ch from hook (7)
Rd. 2: Ch2, hdc in same st, *hdc in next 2 sts, 2hdc in next st,* repeat *, join (10)
Rd. 3: Ch2, hdc in same st, hdc in next 3 sts, 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts, 2hdc in next st, hdc in next st, 2hdc in next st, join (14)
Rd. 4: Ch2, hdc in same st, hdc in next 2 sts, *2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts,* repeat * 1 time, 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 2, join (18)
Rd. 5: Ch2, hdc in same st, *hdc in next 4 sts, 2hdc in next st,* repeat * 2 times, hdc in next 2 sts (21)
Rd. 6: Ch2, hdc in same st, hdc in next 2 sts, *2hdc in next st, hdc in next 2*, repeat * around join, (28)
Rd. 7: Ch2, hdc in same st, hdc in next 3 sts, *2hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts*, repeat * around, join (35)
Rd. 8: Ch2, hdc in same st, hdc in next 4 sts, *2hdc in next st, hdc in next 4 sts*, repeat* around, join (42) – Change to Orange yarn on last st.
Rd. 9: Ch2, hdc in same st, hdc in next 5 sts, *2hdc in next st, hdc in next 5 sts, * repeat * around, join (49)
Rds. 10- 19: Ch2, hdc in each st around (49) – Change to Yellow yarn at the end of Rd. 17, continue same for Rounds 18 & 19. Do not fasten off you will work first earflap – slst in next 6 stitches and continue as follows:
Row 1: Ch2, hdc in next 13 sts, ch 2, turn (14 hdc, chain 2 counts as 1hdc)
Row 2: hdc2tog, hdc in next 9 sts, hdc2tog, ch 2, turn (12)
Row 3: hdc in each st, ch 2, turn (12)
Row 4: hdc2tog, hdc in next 7 sts, hdc2tog, ch 2, turn (10)
Row 5: hdc in each st, ch 2, turn (10)
Row 6: hdc2tog, hdc in next 5 sts, hdc2tog, ch 2, turn (8)
Row 7: hdc in each st, ch 2, turn (8)
Row 8: hdc2tog, hdc in next 3 sts, hdc2tog, ch 2, turn (6)
Row 9: hdc2tog, hdc in next st, hdc2tog, fasten off (4)
Count 12 stitches across front of hat, join yellow yarn to next st and repeat rows 1-9 above, but do not fasten off. Ch 1, sc around the hat, join to the first sc, fasten off.
Tassels: make 2
Cut (4) strands of orange, yellow, white 10″ long. Fold strands over to form a loop at the top. Take a small strand of orange yarn and slip it thru the loop and knot. You will use this to tie tassel to earflap. Take another strand of orange yarn and wind it to the top of the yarn strands about 1/2″ from the loop. You will now have a tassel. Repeat then tie tassels on to the middle of the earflap. Trim ends or braid then trim ends.
Inner Eye:
Hook size F 3.75mm
With black yarn Ch 2
Rd. 1: 6sc in 2nd. ch from hook, join – switch to brown yarn (6)
Rd. 2: ch 1,sc in same st, *2 sc in each st*, repeat * around, join – switch to white yarn (12)
Rd. 3: ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next st, *2sc in next st, sc in next st*, repeat * around join (18)
Rd. 4: ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 2 sts, *2sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts*, repeat * around, join (24)
Rd. 5: ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 3 sts, *2sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts*, repeat * around, join (30)
Rd. 6: ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 4 sts, *2sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts*, repeat* around, join (36) fasten off leaving 6″ tail for stitching
Outer Eye:
Hook size F
With yellow yarn Ch 2
Rd. 1: 6 sc in 2nd. ch from hook, join (6)
Rd. 2: Ch 2, hdc in same st, *2hdc in each st*, repeat* around, join (12)
Rd. 3: Ch 2, hdc in same st, hdc in next st, *2hdc in next st, hdc in next st*, repeat * around, join (18)
Rd. 4: Ch 2, hdc in same st, hdc in next 2 sts, *2hdc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts*, repeat* around, join (24)
Rd. 5: Ch 2, hdc in same st, hdc in next 3 sts, *2hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts*, repeat* around, join (30)
Rd. 6: Ch 2, hdc in same st, hadc in next 4 sts, *2hdc in next st, hdc in next 4sts*, repeat * around, join (36) fasten off leaving 6″ tail for sewing
Sew inner eye into outer eye. Sew finished eye to the middle of the front of the hat.
Sweater: Size 2 will fit chest size 21″ Size K hook. Ch 2 counts as 1 dc
BACK:
Row 1: With yellow yarn – ch 41. Hdc in 3rd. chain from hook and in each stitch across, turn (40hdc)
Row 2: Ch 2, *fpdc in next st, bpdc in next st* repeat * across, dc in last st, turn (40 dc)
Rows 3-5: Repeat Row 2 (40 dc)
Row 6: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn (40sc)
Row 7 – 8: Ch 2, dc in each st across, turn (40dc) – change to orange at the end of row 8
Rows 9 – 26 repeat row 7 (40 dc) – change to white at the end of row 26
Row 27: Repeat row 7 (40dc)
Row 28: Slst in first 4 sts, ch 2, dc in next 31 sts, leave remaining sts unworked, turn (32dc)
Row 29 – 41: Ch 2, dc in each st across, turn (32dc),
First shoulder:
After row 41 you will start the first shoulder
Row 1: Ch 2, dc in next 4 sts, turn – leave remaining sts unworked (5dc)
Row 2-3: repeat Row 1 – fasten off
Second shoulder:
With right side facing you count 5 sts from opposite end, join yarn to next st and repeat 3 rows of first shoulder
Front:
Work same as the back up to row 35
Row 36 will start first shoulder as follows:
Row 1: Ch 2, dc in next 8 sts, turn – leave remaining sts unworked (9dc)
Row 2: Slst first 2 sts, ch 2 in next st, dc in remaining sts, turn (7dc)
Row 3: Ch 2, dc in next 4 sts, turn – leave remaining sts. unworked (5dc)
Row 4 – 11: Ch 2, dc in next 4 sts, turn fasten off
Second shoulder:
With right side facing you count 9 sts from opposite end, join yarn to next st and repeat 11 rows of first shoulder
Sleeves: Make 2
Row 1: With Yellow chain 37. Hdc in 3rd, ch from hook and in each stitch across ( 36hdc)
Row 2: Ch 2, *fpdc in next st, bpdc in next st* repeat * across, dc in last st, turn (36 dc)
Rows 3-5: Repeat Row 2 (36 dc)
Row 6: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn (36 sc) Change to orange at the end of the row
Row 7 – 31: Ch 2, dc in each st across, turn (36dc) change to white at the end of row 25
Row 32: Ch 2, dc in same st, dc in each st across, 2dc in last st, turn (38dc)
Row 33: Ch 2, dc in each st across, turn (38dc) fasten off
With yarn needle and right sides facing stitch front and back together at shoulder.
Stitch sleeves in body by fitting sleeves into the armholes – see picture
Stitch sleeve seams and side seams together. I matched the yarn color to the color blocks on the sweater and sleeves.
Neck line trim:
Attach white yarn to one shoulder at the neckline. Hdc in each stitch around, join to the first hdc.
Rd. 1: Ch 2, *fpdc in next st, bpdc in next st* repeat * around, dc in last st, join
Next round: Repeat round 1, join and fasten off. Weave all ends securely.
Eyes:
Make inner eye same as for the hat but fasten off after round 4 (24sc)
Make outer eye in gray same as for had but fasten off after round 4 (24hdc)
I made 6 eyes and attached to the front of the sweater, but you can make however many eyes you want.
Should your baby shower have a theme? Here we’ll help you find the perfect theme to kick off your new life with your baby as you explore dozens of creative baby shower theme ideas.
Picking a baby shower theme should reflect the personality and interests of the parents, but narrowing down all of the options can be a hassle. Depending on if your shower is a neighborhood potluck, a gender reveal or a simple Sunday brunch, we’ve gathered hundreds of baby shower theme ideas that will delight any parent-to-be.
This gender neutral baby shower theme features vintage toys, sweet baby’s breath flowers, and white decorations.
Elephants make great baby shower themes for girls that your guests will never forget!
Your favorite iconic children’s toy is great inspiration for a baby boy shower theme, like the classic sock monkey.
Skulls and cactii from the desert are the ultimate decor for a modern chic themed baby shower right now.
An amazing boy baby shower always includes adorable decorations, sweet printable details, a delicious assortment of desserts (cake, cookies, and candy) and charming details. This yellow vintage baby shower features the cutest duck printables, old children’s books, gingham checks and vintage glassware. You will be smiling over all of the bright, cheerful details.
A new baby definitely calls for tossing some confetti in celebration! This confetti baby shower is a unique theme and fun way to honor an expectant mother. Recreate the look by incorporating plenty of confetti inspired dots throughout the decorations and treats. You can DIY paper circle garlands by punching circles of varying sizes in party colors and sewing them into strings for hanging. Wrap boxes in polka dot paper to display a variety of delicious treats like cookies, cupcakes and cake pops.
Spending time with your children or grandchildren can be a real joy, but it’s also a golden opportunity to help them learn without even realizing it. With the latest exam data showing that just 42% of Hawaiian public school students are reaching proficiency targets in Math – the same percentage as in the previous two years – helping your child to be confident in numeracy is really important. Whether they’re following a delicious pancake recipe with you or working out how to make their Lego pieces fit together, kids need numbers. Thankfully there are lots of fun ways to support your child at home and build strong math foundations for life.
Laying fun foundations
Teaching professionals have found that simple math games can help to introduce your kids to mathematical principles in a fun way. Card games like Uno can teach them about matching colors and numbers, and counting the cards you need to pick up. Classic board games such as Monopoly help them learn to count numbers on dice, move spaces and count money; you could even get the Hawaiian edition to brush up on their local knowledge too. These traditional games are also wonderfully sociable and easy to play with less active members of the family too.
Math on the move
In a recent vacation survey, 64% of families were planning road trips as an affordable, easy way to travel. If you need something to keep the kids entertained, having some simple math games to hand can really help. Counting cars of matching colors is a nice easy game for all ages. You could also prepare colorful flash cards to test each other on your times tables as you travel.
Mother Nature’s math class
For a really easy way to make math part of everyday life, simply step outside. As a local study finds that the average Hawaiian youth spends 3 hours a day on video games, make it your mission to step away from screens and get out into nature. Children can learn to spot shapes in nature, count petals, birds or study the shapes of different types of leaves. For a fun craft project, teach them to make a kite.
Math doesn’t have to mean sitting at a table with sums; you can use it when you bake together, make crafts or visit the park. By making numbers fun, approachable and relevant, you can remove some of the barriers which may make children feel less confident about the subject. Whether the child in your life is going to be an astronaut or sell their own paintings, math is at the core of life; help them find a little joy in it.