Well the new year is officially here. At our house that means a year of events to look forward to. But before I can start planning our next event I had to clean up and organize after a very busy holiday season.
My kitchen was a mess! Specially this year when our refrigerator decided to go on the blitz on Christmas Eve. We found ourselves shopping for a new fridge the day after Christmas, when did they get so expensive?
We found one at the Home Depot who delivered it to our home the day after New Year. This gave me enough time to clean and organize my kitchen with time to spare. I figured our new state of the art 30 cu. ft. LG fridge equipped with all the bells and whistles called for new and fresh kitchen accessories to go with the Nesspresso machine, pasta machine, silverware, and other kitchen gadgets I got for Christmas. So what could I make?
I had made several sets of these colorful trivets or hot pads to give friends for Christmas, but I didn’t make any for myself. Now that I had a bit of spare time I decided I should make a set or two for myself. I love this design, the ring makes for easy storage. You can hang them on a hook, a cabinet or drawer pull, or even on the faucet if you choose to use them as dish cloths. Best of all they’re super easy to make, each one took me less than an hour! The shower curtain ring covered in yarn keeps these trivets neat and handy. Make some for yourself or to give as gifts. They make great hostess and house warming gifts!
I’m giving you directions for 2 versions of the same pad, one is done using HDC (pictured above) the other is a front post HDC (pictured below). Either one is cute and easy.
#4 yarn in cotton or material you prefer in the color or colors you prefer
Hook Size J 6.00mm
Plastic shower curtain ring – you can pick up a set at Walmart for under $2. You can get any color, but I prefer the clear ones. This set just needs one ring, you can save the others for other projects.
Ch – chain
Sl St – slip stitch
SC – single crochet
HDC – half double crochet
Magic ring – Ch 1
36 SC in the circle. Pull tight and Sl St to first SC.
Row 1: Ch 2 (counts as 1st. HDC), HDC in next 4 sts, 3 HDC in next st, HDC in next 5 sts, Ch 2, turn (13 HDC)
Row 2: HDC in next 6 sts (until you reach the middle of the 3 HDC point in row 1, this is your increase point), HDC in each st to end of row 1, Ch 2, turn (15 HDC)
Row 3 – 20: Repeat row 2 increasing 2 HDC for each row when you make 3 HDC at the increase point which is the middle of the 3 HDC in the previous row.
If you want a smaller pad you don’t have to make 20 rows, just make less rows. For longer pad continue pattern until you reach your desired length. You can also change yarn at the end of any row if you want a striped design.
At the end of your last row DO NOT fasten off and continue on to the edging.
SC around the entire work including the ring at the top. Work 3 SC at the increase point of the last row and in each corner. Fasten off and weave ends in.
Shower Curtain Ring
Tie yarn at one end of the shower curtain ring. Tie it on the ring itself, not the part where it latches. Leave that yarn free for easier opening and closing of the ring.
SC around the entire ring to the other end. Work SC in the ring like you are working a magic ring. Push stitches together as you work to make them tighter. The idea is to leave no gaps so you can’t see the ring.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
This version uses the same pattern just a different stitch. To get the ridge you will work the entire pad using a front post HDC.
If you’re not familiar with front post stitches here’s a video tutorial from LeisureArts.com
To make this version follow the pattern above, but instead of HDC make the stitches FPHDC (front post half double crochet). End each row with and HDC.
I recently made a pattern for a pair of Art Deco legwarmers for my daughter. I loved the pattern so much I decided to make a pattern for a matching Art Deco hat. I gave her the set for Christmas and she loved it!
I was going for a 1920’s vintage look hat and decided on this cloche style which repeated the design of the legwarmers. I added a large flower and accented it with this large pearl and rhinestone button I found at Walmart. I used Red Heart #4 Worsted yarn in Heather Gray, but you can make it in any color and accent it with either a flower or large bow. If you have a large brooch you can pin that on instead of the button. The idea here is a Gatsby like hat, and they did love their bling back in those days!
To download a pdf version of this pattern Clik here!
Art Deco Hat
Hook Size K 6.50mm
#4 Worsted Yarn Red Heart Heather Gray
Finished size fits adults up to 22” head circumference
Ch – Chain
SL ST – Slip Stitch
SC – Single Crochet
HDL – Half Double Crochet
DC – Double Crochet
CL – Cluster (7 DC in same st)
VS – V-Stitch (DC, CH, DC in same st)
Join with SL ST to first stitch in round. CH 2 in beginning of each round counts as 1HDC.
Rd. 1: CH 2, 7 SC in 2nd. CH from hook, join (7 SC )
Rd. 2: CH 2, HDC in same st, *2HDC in each st*, repeat ** around join to top of CH 2 (14 HDC)
Rd. 3: CH 2, HDC in same st, HDC in next st, *2HDC in next st, HDC in next st*, repeat ** around join to top of CH 2 (21 HDC)
Rd. 4: CH 2, HDC in same st, HDC in next 2 sts, *2HDC in next st, HDC in next 2 sts*, repeat ** around join to top of CH 2 (28 HDC)
Rd. 5: CH 2, HDC in same st, HDC in next 3 sts, *2HDC in next st, HDC in next 3 sts*, repeat ** around join to top of CH 2 (35 HDC)
Rd. 6: CH 2, HDC in same st, HDC in next 4 sts, *2HDC in next st, HDC in next 4 sts*, repeat ** around join to top of CH 2 (42 HDC)
Rd. 7: CH 2, HDC in same st, HDC in next 5 sts, *2HDC in next st, HDC in next 5 sts*, repeat ** around join to top of CH 2 (49 HDC)
Rd. 8: CH 2, HDC in same st, HDC in next 6 sts, *2HDC in next st, HDC in next 6 sts*, repeat ** around join to top of CH 2 (56 HDC)
Rd. 9: CH2, 6DC in same St, skip next 2 st, SC in next st, skip next 2, *7DC next st (CL), skip 2 st, SC in next st, skip 2* Repeat around end with SC then Skip last 2 st, join to top of CH2- 9 Clusters & 9 SC
Rd. 10: SL ST back to last SC in previous round, CH3, DC in same st (this is your first VST), *ch5, skip CL, (DC, CH1, DC -VST) in SC in previous round* repeat around, ending with CH5, SL ST in in space of beginning VST – 9VS & 9 CH5 Spaces
Rd. 11: CH 2 (counts as 1 DC), 6 DC in sp of VS in rd. 10, SC in 4th. DC of CL in rd. 10 enclosing the CH 5 in rd. 10 within the SC, *7 DC in sp of VS in rd. 10, SC in 4th. DC of CL in rd. 10 enclosing the CH 5 in rd. 10 within the SC*, Repeat ** around ending with SC in last CL, SL ST to top of CH 2 in beginning of round.
Rd. 12: SL ST back to last SC in rd. 11, CH 3, DC in same st, *CH 5, skip cluster, VS in SC in Rd. 11* Repeat ** around ending with CH 5, skip Cluster, SL ST to 2nd. CH of begging CH 3 –
Rd. 13: Repeat Rd. 11
Rd. 14: Repeat Rd. 12
Rd. 15: Repeat Rd. 11
Rd. 16: Ch 2 (1st. SC), SC in 4th. St of CL in Rd. 15, SC in last St of same CL, SC on either side of SC in Rd. 15, *SC in 1st. St of Next CL of Rd. 12, SC in 4th. St of same CL, SC in last st of same CL, SC on either side of SC in Rd. 15* repeat ** around, Sl St to 2nd. Ch of beginning Ch2 (45 SC)
Rd. 17: CH 2, HDC in each st around, join (45 HDC)
Rd. 18: Ch 2, SC in each st around and fasten off (45 SC)
I used the Wagon Wheel Flower design from b. hooked crochet. To make this flower I used Hook Size K.
Sew button into center of flower
Sew flower on to side of the hat
Don’t have time to make it? Order one from my Estsy shop today! I can make it any color you want!
I’m on a mission to make my daughters cute earwarmers to keep them warm this winter. They love earwarmers because they can use it outdoors to keep them warm and they’re cute enough to keep on even indoors.
The basic band is really easy and fast to whip up and you can change the look with different accents. This time I used a two color flower and stitched a coordinating button in the center.
For this flower I used the free Frothy Flower pattern from Very Berry Handmade. I just used 2 colors and added the button.
Earwarmers make great stocking stuffers and are a great way to use that leftover yarn.
Row 1: SC 2nd. Ch from hook, SC in each Ch across, turn (12 SC)
Row 2: Ch 1 (does not count as SC), SC in back loops of each st across, turn (12 SC)
Repeat Row 2 until piece measures 20” in length (you can adjust this for a custom fit, measure head circumference and SUBRACT 2” to the crochet piece)
Once you’ve reached desired length DO NOT fasten off. Hold work front side facing you and hook should be on the right side. Fold piece in half making bottom edge even with the top edge.
SL ST both sided together working back loops only on top edge and thru beginning chain stitches on the bottom edge. (12 SL ST).
Fasten off and weave in ends.
For this flower I used the free Frothy Flower pattern from Very Berry Handmade. I started the flower in pink and made the first round of petals in pink as well. I changed color for the second row of petals, and switched back to the pink for the final row of petals.
I stitched a coordinating button at the center of the flower before attaching it to the band.
Be the “Cat’s Meow” with this pair of Art Deco design legwarmers.
I’ve been making legwarmers for my daughters using patterns I found online. I recently made a dish cloth using this Art Deco design and thought it would look great as a legwarmer, so I made up this pattern.
I love the way it turned out. I loved it so much I made a pattern for a matching hat! Click here for the free hat pattern!
Here’s the pattern! Hope you enjoy it!
To download a pdf version of this pattern click here!
Art Deco Design Legwarmers
Hook Size K 6.50 mm
#4 Worsted Yarn in Heather Gray or your color preference
Gauge: 14 HDC = 4”
14 rows of HDC = 4”
Top Ribbing 10” will fit up to 12-13” calf circumference
Length from edge of top ribbing to edge of bottom ribbing 18”
Instructions are given for the size above. To adjust the size increase or decrease foundation round after the top ribbing by 6.
To adjust length just make more or less rows of the pattern, but you must end with round 3 of the pattern.
To find the correct size for you measure the calf just under the knee. Subtract 2” from your measurement and make the top ribbing that length.
Ch – chain
Sl St – slip stitch
Sc – single crochet
Hdc – half double crochet
Dc – double crochet
Vs – V-stitch ( dc, ch, dc in same stitch)
Cluster – 7dc in same stitch or space
Blpsc – sc in back loops only
Top Ribbing: This is worked in rows and edges are sl st together to form a circle when the desired rows are completed. Ch 1 at the beginning of each row DOES NOT count as a stitch. Be sure you make the ch 1 after you turn to keep the edges even.
Row 1: sc in 2nd. St from hook, sc in each st across, turn (10 sc)
Row 2: ch 1, sc in each st across, turn (10 sc)
Repeat row 2 until length is 10” or your desired size
Once you reach your length size hold both ends of the work together and sl st them together. Work in back loop of last row and sl st to the foundation ch. DO NOT fasten off. From here on you will be working in rounds. Continue to the body portion of the leg warmer.
Foundation round: Ch 1 (does not count as sc), 36 sc around – space them as evenly as possible, sl st last sc to the first sc you made at the beginning of the round.
Rd 1: Ch 1 (does not count as sc), sc in next st, * skip next 2 sts, 7 Dc (cluster) in next st, skip next 2 sts, sc in next st*, sl st in to 1 sc of the rd. (6 clusters)
Rd 2: Ch 3 (counts as 1dc and 1 ch ), DC in same st (1st VS of round), *ch 5, skip cluster, VS (1 dc, 1 ch, 1 dc in same st) in next st* repeat ** around until you get to the last ch 5, sl st in to 2nd. Ch of the 3 ch you made at the beginning of the rd.
Rd 3: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 6 dc in ch 1 space of the VS you made in rd 2. SC in to 4th. St of cluster you made in rd 1 wrap the ch 5 you made in rd 2 in the sc so it is attached to the top of the cluster, * 7 dc in next VS, sc in 4th st of cluster wrapping ch 5 in sc* repeat ** around until you get to the sc in the last cluster, sl st to top of ch 2 at the beginning of rd.
Rd 4: sl st to the last sc you made in rd 3 (you will be making this st in the st to the right of hook), ch 3, dc in same st, *ch 5, skip cluster, work VS in next sc st on rd 3* repeat ** around until you get to the last ch 5, sl st to 2nd ch of the ch 3 you made at the beginning of the rd.
Repeat Rds 3 & 4 until work measures 16” from the edge of the ribbing. You last row must be Rd 3 of the pattern. If you need a longer leg warmer add more rd 3 & 4 until you reach desired length, end on Rd 3 of the pattern.
Next rd: st st in next 2 st, sc in next 3 st, hdc on each side of the sc of the row below *sk next 2 st, sc in next 3, hdc on each side of sc of row below* Repeat ** around, sl st last sc to the first sc of the round. Do not fasten off. You should have less stitches than you had on the top ribbing as the bottom ribbing is 1” narrower than the top ribbing. You will now be making the bottom ribbing
Bottom Ribbing: Bottom ribbing is made in rows that are sl st to the last rd you just made.
Row 1: Ch 9, sc in 2ndchain from hook. Hold chains at an angle away from the bottom of the leg warmer. You will be working toward the leg warmer. When you reach the edge of the leg warmer skip next st, sl st in to next st, turn (8 sc)
Row 2: From this row on you will be working only in back loops. (You will be alternating rows – one away from the leg warmer, next towards leg warmer.)
Do not ch 1 at the beginning of any row where you sl st to the leg warmer and work away from leg warmer. Sc across back loops, turn (8 sc)
Row 3: Ch 1 (does not count as sc), sc across back loops, turn ( 8 sc)
Repeat Rows 2 & 3 around the edge of the legwarmer. When you get to the end sl st ends together. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Don’t have time to make your own pair of legwarmers? No worries order a pair from my Etsy Shop!
I’ve been in a legwarmer mood and have been crocheting them in various designs. This Shells and Cords pattern by Creations Chaann is one of my favorites.
It takes a little longer and more yarn than some of the other legwarmers I’ve made, but it’s thick, warm, and cozy. I made it using almost 2 skeins of Red Heart yarn in Black Fleck. I love the small pops of color throughout.
The pattern isn’t that easy but it’s not hard either. You will have to be familiar with front post double crochet (fpdc), back post double crochet, and working in back loops.
The pattern is divided in to 3 parts: Top ribbing, body, and bottom ribbing.
The top ribbing is worked in rows of back loop single crochet stitches. This is the part that will hold the legwarmer up on your calf. You can adjust the ribbing to fit your calf by adding or subtracting the number of rows worked. (To find the correct measurement for the top ribbing measure around the upper part of calf, just below the knee. Your ribbing should be 1″ – 2″ less than the measurement you took. To double check place the work around your calf, it should be snug, but not too tight. Remember the ribbing will stretch once you put the leg warmer on. Making it too loose will cause the leg warmer to slip down.) Once you’ve made enough rows to fit your calf you will slip stitch the last row to the first row you made to form a band. The rest of the warmer will be worked in rounds.
The body is worked in a shell pattern running vertically between rows of ridges. The ridges are made with front post double crochet. You can add length or shorten the legwarmer when you work the body by making more or less rounds until you reach your desired length.
The bottom ribbing is also worked in rounds, so don’t fasten off when you finish the last row of the body. You will be working the ribbing using front post and back post double crochet.
A couple of weeks ago I decided that I’d make my Sweet & Salty Party Mix to give out as gifts to friends and neighbors. I packaged them up in quart size Mason jars but I felt they lacked a little Christmas cheer.
So I made up these Holly Berry lid covers to add that festive touch. These covers are so easy to make, it didn’t take me long to crochet a dozen.
I used scrap ribbon and twine to make the ties. Now I just have to add the tag!
These lid covers can be made to fit any holiday or occasion just by changing the applique.
Hook size H 5.00 mm
Hook size F 3.75mm (for holly applique)
Yarn – main color (white or tan), green, red
Ribbon or twine
Ch – chain
Sl St – slip stitch
Sc – single crochet
Hdc – Half double crochet
Dc – Double crochet
Tc – treble crochet
Lid Cover: ch 1 at beginning of each round does not count as a stitch
Ch 4 sl st to first ch to form ring
Rd. 1: ch 1, 6 sc inside ring, join (6 sc)
Rd. 2: ch 1, 2 sc in each st around, join (12 sc)
Rd. 3: repeat rd. 2 (24 sc)
Rd. 4: ch 1, *2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts*, repeat ** around, join (32 sc)
Rd. 5: ch 1, * 2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts*, repeat ** around, join (40 sc)
Rd. 6: ch 1, sc in each st BACK LOOPS only (40 sc)
Rd. 7: Ch 4 ( counts as 1 TC & 1 ch), Tc in next st, ch 2, *skip next 2 sts, Tc in next 2 sts, ch 2*, repeat ** around, join to 2nd. ch of ch 4 at beginning of round. (10 ch 2 spaces)
Rd. 8: ch 1, sc in each st and each ch 2 space, join. Fasten off and weave in ends (30 sc)
Thread ribbon or twine between ch spaces you made in round 7. Tie with bow. Sew on holly applique
Holly Applique – use F hook
Sc in 2nd. chain on the foundation, Hdc in next st, Picot in next st (Dc, chain 2, sc in 2nd. chain from hook), Dc in next st, Hdc in next st, Picot in next st, Dc in next st, Hdc in next st, sc in next st, Mini Picot in last chain of the foundation (Sl St, chain 2, sc in 2nd. chain from hook) – One side of the foundation chain is complete, rotate work so you can work on the other said of the foundation chain.
Repeat the pattern above starting with an Sc in the next chain. Fasten off leaving tail for sewing leaves together.
Sew at the bottom of the leaves, position leaves at a bit of an angle, the bottom part should overlap just a bit.
Berries – make 3 red berries
Sc in 2nd. chain from hook, hdc in next st, dc in next st, hdc in next st, sc in last st, fasten off leaving tail for sewing.
Using needle insert into the 2nd sc you made, roll up and stitch into next crochet stitch, work piece in to a ball shape by weaving the needle in and around the other stitches and around the sides of the piece. When you have the ball pull yarn tight and sew on top of the leaves.