Valentine’s Day is in a couple of weeks. It’s a fun holiday when you have school age kids, they love sharing cute Valentines with their classmates. Every year finding the right Valentines for my grandson to bring to class can be a challenge. They think most of the cards sold at stores are too “girly”. This year it was a bit easier thanks to the new Star Wars movie. I had seen similar Star Wars Valentines on Pintrest last year but Devon, my grandson wasn’t interested.
On my recent visit to Atlanta I took the boys to see the new Star Wars movie, they loved it. When we got home I asked Devon if he wanted to give Star Wars Valentines out this year, he thought it would be super cool. So with his help and that of his brother, Dion, we made the cool valentines.
These Valentines are so easy to make, we made 24 of them in less than an hour. Instead of giving out candy Devon will be giving out glow sticks instead. I’m sure his classmates’ parents will be happier! Get a jump start on Valentine’s Day with these easy and inexpensive cards!
Here are some quick and easy to follow instructions to help you make Star War Valentines for your child to give classmates this year. (Devon happily proclaimed they were “boy” valentines, but girls can give them out too!)
Photo of your child holding a toy light saber, if you don’t have one use a flashlight
Paper cutter (this just makes cutting straight lines easier but if you don’t have one you can use scissors or a craft knife)
Glow Sticks (bracelet type works best)
Take a photo of your child in his or her best saber fighting pose while holding a toy light saber or flashlight. I used my cell phone.
Edit your photo, add a Star Wars like background, and the text you want. I used the free version of an iphone app called Galaxy Space Effects by Applause to add the galaxy background and the photo editor on my phone to add text.
Print photo out on white card stock in the size you want, we used 4 x 6.
Cut out photos using a paper cutter of scissors. Make the edges as straight as you can.
Using a craft knife cut an “X” on the card stock as close as possible to the hand holding the light saber/flashlight.
Insert glow stick into the cut “X”, position it so that the glow stick is “shooting” out of the light saber and doesn’t stick out of the card edges from the back. Tape glow stick to the back of the card.
I have fallen in love with the Jacob’s Ladder crochet stitch after making a small blanket using this design. I love the cable look and thought it would look great on legwarmers. My daughter really loved the color of one of the yarn I used on the blanket and since I had a skein left over I decided to make her a pair.
It didn’t take me long to make these legwarmers. The Jacob’s Ladder design is very simple. It’s an easy pattern for beginners. This pair of legwarmers are super cute and can be made in just a few hours using just 4 basic stitches; Chain, Single Crochet, Double Crochet, and Slip Stitch.
What looks like a cable stitch is actually a panel of interlocking chain stitches! The ribbed bands on the top and bottom are rows of backloop single crochet stitches.
Each legwarmer is worked as a single piece with 3 sections, so no need to stitch them together. The top and bottom bands are worked in rows and the main body in between is worked in rounds.
To create a tighter band (this is what holds the legwarmer up on the calf) a smaller K hook is used and a larger N hook is used to work the main body to give it a chunkier look, the larger hook also lets you make these legwarmers very fast.
Gauge for K hook is 10 SC stitches x 5 rows = 3 Sq. In.
Gauge for N hook is 6 DC stitches x 4 rows = 4 Sq. In.
Gauge isn’t really important, correct measurements will give you a better fit.
Top Ribbing 10” will fit up to 12-13” calf circumference
Length from edge of top ribbing to edge of bottom ribbing 18”
Instructions are given for the size above.
You can easily adjust the size for a custom fit.
To increase or decrease the calf size add or subtract rows for the top ribbing, just be sure you end up with a number of rows that are divisible by 6 so that the main body pattern will come out evenly.
To increase or decrease the length make more or less rounds of the main pattern to suit your measurements. Remember that you will add a bottom ribbing which is 2 ½” wide. Take the ribbing into account when you make length adjustments.
To find the correct size for you measure the calf just under the knee. Subtract 2” from your measurement and make the top ribbing that length. This accounts for the stretch in the ribbing, remember this is what hold the legwarmer up on the calf so you want it pretty snug.
To find the correct length measure the calf from just under the knee to the top of the ankle. If you want your legwarmers to be “slouchy” add a couple of inches to your length depending on how slouchy you want it to be.
Click here for a printable pdf version of this pattern!
Top Ribbing: This is the first section of your legwarmer. It is worked in rows using the smaller K hook. When you’ve reached your desired length you will slip stitch the last row to the first row you worked to form a band. Turning Ch 1 does not count as the first SC. You will be working in the Back Loops only to form the ribbing.
Using Hook size K Chain 11
Row 1: SC in 2nd. Ch from hook, SC in each Ch across, Ch 1, Turn (10 SC)
Row 2: BLSC in each St across, Ch 1, Turn (10 SC)
Row 3 – 30: Repeat Row 2 (to row 30 or your desired length)
Next Row: Sl St last worked row to the first row you made, DO NOT fasten off (10 Sl St)
Main Body: This section is worked in Rounds using the larger N hook. The Ch 3 at the beginning of each round counts as your first DC. You will end each round with a Sl St to the top of the Ch 3 at the beginning of the round. For the first round space the sts evenly along the ribbing to establish the pattern.
Change to Hook size N.
Round 1: Ch 3, DC in next 2 sts, Ch 7, * DC in next 6 st, Ch 7 *, Repeat ** 3 times, DC in the last 3 spaces of the ribbing. Sl St to top of Ch 3.
Round 2: Ch 3, DC in next 2 sts, Ch 7, * DC in next 6 st, Ch 7*, Repeat ** 3 times, DC in last 3 sts, Sl St to top of Ch 3.
Round 3 – 10: Repeat Round 2 (if you are adjusting the length just add or subtract rounds)
At this point your legwarmer will look like this picture. It doesn’t look like a legwarmer at all, it looks more like a floppy hat shaped piece. We will fix this in the next round.
Next Round: Ch 3, DC in next 2 sts, keep hook in loop of last DC and work the Ch 7 spaces in a daisy chain fashion to form the “ladder” (follow the photos)
Starting at the Ch 7 closest to the top ribbing slip the 2nd. Ch 7 strand thru the 1st. Ch 7 strand. Insert 2nd. strand from BEHIND the 1st. strand and pull thru to the front to form a loop
Do the same with the 3rd. strand – pull it thru the 2nd. Strand. Continue in this fashion until you get to the last strand.
You will end up with a final loop once you have inserted the last strand thru the strand just below it.
Insert hook (loop of last DC you worked should still be on the hook) into the final loop of the ladder and make a SC (insert hook into final loop, pick up yarn – you will have 2 loops on the hook, yarn over and pull thru both loops – for your SC)
DC into the next 6 sts until you get to the next set of Ch 7 strands.
Here’s a quick video tutorial you might find helpful!
Repeat these steps all the way around until you finish the last ladder panel, DC into the last 3 sts, Sl St to top of Ch 3. (30 DC, 5 SC)
Next Round: Change to smaller K hook.
Ch 2, SC in next 2 sts, * Skip next st (SC from round below), SC in next 6 sts *, repeat ** 3 times, Skip next st, SC in next 3 sts, join with Sl St to top of Ch 2. DO NOT fasten off.
Bottom Ribbing: This final section is worked in rows that are attached with Sl St to the last round of the main body. Stitches are again worked in the back loops only just like the top ribbing.
Row 1: Ch 7 hold chain perpendicular to legwarmer.
BLSC 2nd. Ch from hook and in all Ch across, Ch 1, Turn (6 SC)
Row 2: BLSC in each st, working towards the legwarmer,
skip next st in last round of legwarmer and Sl St to next st, Ch 1, Turn
Row 3: BLSC in each st, working away from legwarmer, Ch 1, Turn.
Repeat Rows 2 & 3 around the edge of legwarmer.
Sl St last worked row to first worked row. Fasten off and weave in ends.
My 16 month old twin grandchildren I babysit several times a week are now very mobile. They are into everything! One of their favorite activities is climbing. They climb on anything, usually to reach something that caught their eyes! They especially love to climb a chest in our family room that allows them to reach some of the family portraits we have hanging on the wall behind. This can be very dangerous as the photos are in wood and glass frames. I decided our reachable photos had to be replaced with a child safe wood photo hanger.
I made this cute wood photo hanger using a wooden address plaque and drawer pulls I found at Home Depot. I painted the plaque red to compliment my decor, strung jute twine between the drawer pulls and used small painted clothes pins to hang photos of all the grandkids. To personalize it I cut letters on my Cricut Explore Air and decoupaged them on the plaque. Simple! Most importantly it didn’t break the bank! The project cost me about $25. (I had most of the supplies and only had to buy the plaque, drawer pulls, and spray paint.)
It may cost you a bit more if you have to buy the other supplies, or it could cost less if you use wood scraps or an old address plaque and drawer pulls. (clicking on some links will take you to one of my affiliates)
This wood photo hanger is so easy to make and is very versatile. You can paint or stain it in any color, use stickers or stencils to personalize it, use fun door pulls, and different colored mini clothes pins. It makes a great grandparent gift, mother’s day gift, or a gift for just about anyone for any event.
Here’s a step by step how to make your own Wood Photo Hanger!
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Address Plaque or scarp of wood at least 14″ long and 8″ wide
Cover your work space with a drop sheet or newspaper, anything to protect the surface. It’s best to do this part outdoors or in a well ventilated area.
Spray paint or stain the front of the plaque. Be sure to spray the edges too. Allow to dry completely.
You can spray more than one coat if you like, just be sure paint dries between coats.
Cut out letters you need. I used my Cricut Explore to cut our letters to spell “Our Grands”. I cut out 2 sets, a black background set and a red polka dot set to place over it.
You can use stickers or if you prefer stencil the letters on to the plaque. If you use stickers or stencils you can skip the decoupage steps and go ahead and seal the plaque.
Brush Mod Podge Glue ona the plaque. Stick the cut out letters on the plaque and brush with a light coat of Mod Podge (decoupage).
Allow to dry about 30 Minutes.
Repeat the previous step for the second set of letters. Allow to dry over night.
Seal the plaque with Mod Podge Sealer and allow to dry about 3 hours or until it’s no longer tacky.
Screw drawer pulls in the holes on both ends of the plaque. This is why I like to use the address plaque, the holes are pre-drilled. No need to drill holes evenly. If you are using wood scraps you must drill holes on either end. Be sure the holes are evenly spaced and are aligned properly.
Attach the picture hanger to the back of the plaque. You can use any type of wall hanger you have handy. I prefer either the sawtooth hanger or the hooks with a wire strung between them.
String the twine between drawer pulls and secure them to the pulls. You don’t want the twine too taut, but not too loose either. The twin should fall under the words but not below the bottom plaque edge when photos are attached.
Mount to the wall and arrange photos along the twine securing each one with the mini clothes pins.
The great thing about this Wood Photo Hanger is you can change the photos whenever you want to![spacer height=”-20px”]
That’s it I need a craft room! This is finally the year I give in! I’ve been toying with the idea of converting one of my guest rooms into a craft room for the couple of years, mostly the last couple of months when my craft stuff was everywhere. It’s a long overdue project I’ve been putting off for various reasons, the biggest ones are time and cost.
Finding room wasn’t the problem, I certainly have enough room. Now that the children are grown with families of their own my husband, Steve and I find ourselves rambling around our 4 bedroom home. The reality is we only “live” in 3 rooms, the master, downstairs family room, and kitchen. The other 3 bedrooms have become guest rooms only used when the kids and grandchildren come to visit, and that’s at most twice a year, except of course my son’s twins who I babysit several days a week.
They are really the reason I need a craft room. Now that the twins are walking and getting into everything I need a place to store yarn, sewing things, and other crafting supplies. Like kittens they love pulling out yarn and rummaging thru my bins and boxes. For their safety and the sake of my sanity I needed to organize! It will also save time, precious time spent looking for needles, hooks, scissors, etc. when I could be crafting!
My biggest obstacle was money, I didn’t want to spend a lot decking out a craft room. I checked out craft rooms online, some were fantastic, and looked expensive. I didn’t need anything fancy, just something functional and inexpensive. When I told Steve I would be converting a room into my craft room he didn’t really care about the cost, he was mostly concerned about possibly loosing a guest room.
I toyed with the idea of converting the upstairs family room, it’s fairly spacious and only used by the older grandkids to play video games when they’re in town. But as my son and daughter pointed out it gets pretty hot up there, it’s the only room in the house without air conditioning. The kids suggested I convert my son’s old room because it was air conditioned and contained only a single bed and a couple of small shelves. I figured if I moved the shelves out I could free up more space, getting rid of the bed was out of the question, my husband wouldn’t agree.
Once I decided to convert my son’s old room it was time for action. As with every project I undertake I start out with a list and set a budget of $500.
I listed all the things I wanted in a craft room in order of importance:
1. Storage for all my different materials, tools, and supplies
2. Work table for the printer, Cricut die cutting machine, and laminating machine
3. Sewing table if I could fit one
4. Space to set up ironing board and work tables when needed
5. Comfy chair.
I also had to keep the bed so the room had to convert easily to a guest room when needed and I had to match the existing decor and color scheme as well.
To accomplish this I would need shelves, caddies, tables, and more. This could get costly! Craft tables can cost more than $500 depending on size and finishes. To save a few bucks I looked around the house for furniture I could re-purpose.
The old unused computer desk in the upstairs family room turned into my work table. Ever since we each got laptops and tablets we never use the desk top, so I moved it to the store room until I figure out what to do with it. The printer and laminating machine fit perfectly on the upper shelf. The desk surface has enough room for the Cricut Explore that needs about a foot of clearance behind it, and still had plenty of room for the laptop I use to operate the machine.
If you don’t have an old computer desk any old desk or table will do. If you don’t have either check out thrift shops, flea markets, and garage sales, you may just find a bargain! If you absolutely can’t find a bargain you can use a folding table, they’re sold at most of the big box stores and come in various sizes. They cost $50 or less depending on the size. To dress it up cover it with a floor length tablecloth or better yet sew a skirt. This will make it look pretty and you can hide bins and boxes underneath.
The plastic rolling drawers I found in one of the closets works great for storing card stock, paper, and other supplies I need for my Cricut. The best part is I can roll it into the closet when I have guests.
If you don’t already have one of these drawers you can pick one up at Walmart, Target, or other discount store. They come in several sizes and cost about $20.
The plastic bins on top of the drawers hold pens, stamps, and ink pads. I had these already, but if you need to buy some they cost about $1 each at any discount store.
The large plastic bin tucked under the desk holds large finished projects that I want to save for later use. I love these bins, they hold just about anything! I have tons of them so I didn’t have to buy another one. You can pick them up at any discount store for about $5 each.
The bins can easily be stored in the closet when we have company.
I made this crochet caddy with a plastic hanger and some yarn. It keeps my Cricut tools handy. I made it to match the black, white, and red color scheme. If you want to make your own caddy click here for my free pattern!
Every crafter I know has ribbons, lots of ribbons! Here’s an inexpensive way to keep rolls of ribbon organized and ready to use. I picked up this metal multi pant hanger at Target for $6.99. Like the plastic bins and drawers this can be hidden in the closet when we have guests. Perfect!
For my chair I rolled in the padded office chair we used at the computer desk. Since no one used the desk top any more no one sits in the chair.
Now that my work station was set it was time to turn my attention to more storage. The book shelves along the opposite wall had to go, they just wouldn’t work. So I dragged them out and moved them to the family room, they were perfect for the space created when I moved the computer desk into my new craft room. I needed something pretty, functional, and cheap. So I took myself to Target, luckily I caught a sale and came home with a 9 unit storage cube for $39.99 and a 3-2-1 storage cube shelf for $34.99. I also picked up 5 fabric cubes in red and black for $5.99 each.
I assembled them and placed them side by side along the wall, they should be anchored to the wall using the bracket they come with. The cubes are perfect for storing yarn and rolls of tulle, you can see the colors and they look pretty too! The fabric totes keep sewing notions, candle wax and wicks, soap flakes, and other supplies neat, organized, and out of sight. The other cubes hold gift bags, cards, glue, and more. The top of the shelf holds the sewing machine, basket of yarn scraps, and more.
While at Target I also picked up a set of 3 woven baskets for fabric paint, pipe cleaners, and other small supplies, and a flat plastic box divided in compartments, perfect for storing buttons and loose gem stones. The baskets and box cost $3 each. I used empty pickle and pasta sauce jars from the kitchen to hold paint brushes, scissors, and other small items. Baby food jars are great for holding buttons, beads, and other tiny things. Those are free! To dress them up I crochet jar covers for them.
Mason jars work good too! For my free lid cover pattern click here!
In the corner I placed an old wire dress form mostly for decor, but I can hang things on it if I need to.
I also have an old woven basket that serves as a catch all for things I need to sort at a later time. A small storage ottoman doubles as extra storage.
I don’t have enough room for a sewing table, the desk will have to double as one when I need it. But I do have room for a small folding table, and ironing board when I need them. They store neatly in the closet when not in use.
I’m very happy with my new craft room, it has just about everything I had on my wish list. It didn’t cost much to furnish and moving furniture around created space in the upstairs family room. It’s now turned into a TV, game, and reading room with lots of book shelves for our books and photo albums.
Total cost: $118
I created my craft room and came in way below budget! It’s amazing how much you can do and how much money you can save when you re-purpose and up-cycle items you already have at home.
Thinking outside the box really pays off!
I hope this inspires you to create your own craft room. I’d love to see it when you’re done!
In my world New Year means organizing and cleaning. This includes organizing my crafting supplies, tools, and machines. I’ve been keeping them in boxes and bins which I stuffed in my hall closet.
For the last few months those boxes and bins seemed to have found their way into my family and dining rooms, not to mention my kitchen counter. I have to admit it’s been a pain searching thru my stash looking for materials, glue, scissors, and other supplies when I’m ready to craft. My lack of organization in this area is wasting precious time spent hunting for materials, when I could be sewing, crocheting, stamping, or whatever.
Clearly I needed a plan. I decided I’d start small and organize the tools I need for my Cricut. I needed them handy when I use the machine for cards, pennants, etc. I know I could have gone to the store to buy a plastic or canvas organizer, but why bother when I can make one, probably cuter than anything at the store, cheaper too!
With less than a skein of yarn and a plastic hanger I crocheted this cute hanging caddy. The pockets can hold stickers, buttons, scrapers, and more. The top section holds my Cricut tools. Best of all I used colors to match my proposed craft room, but that’s another story.
To make this caddy I used a foundation single crochet. It’s a new stitch I learned recently and I love it! For those of us who find working a foundation chain then a foundation row tedious this is the perfect stitch, both rows are worked together, saving time! This stitch is worked vertically at first until you have the desired length, then you turn it and work across the foundation as you would normally. If you’re not familiar with this stitch here’s a tutorial from futuregirl.com, I’m sure you’ll master it in a few minutes.
You can make this caddy any size and color you want. You can use it to store just about anything you want to keep handy. If you’re a knitter or crocheter it can hold hooks and needles. You can even use it to organize your bathroom, kitchen, or where ever. If you prefer you can make 3 rows of pockets instead of the top row I made to store my tools. Best of all you can decorate it anyway you want. I used appliqued hearts because I was gearing up to go into my Valentine mode, but you can decorate it with lace, flowers, or even just leave it plain. The possibilities are endless!
The directions below are for a caddy measuring 13″ wide (perfect fit for the hanger) 19″ long.
You can make it wider by adding more stitches to the foundation row or narrower by subtracting stitches. To make it longer just work more rows.
I made large and small pockets and divided them in 3 compartments by stitching them to the backing. You can make any size pockets and divide them as you please, just be sure the width of your pockets match the width of the backing.
The top row is 4 rows of star stitch, so you have to make your foundation row an even number that is close in width to the width of the backing. To make it even with the backing just edge it all the way around with a row or two of SC. Place your tools, pens, etc. in the holes between the stitches to hold them in place. You can replace this with more pockets if you prefer.
#4 yarn in color or colors you want
Hook size K 6.50 mm
Hook size F 3.75 mm – for applique hearts
FDSC – Foundation single crochet
Ch – chain
SC – Single crochet
HDC – half double crochet
DC – double crochet
Star Stitch (instructions below)
Backing: Hook size K
38 FDSC, Ch 2, turn (Ch 2 counts as DC for every row)
Rows 2 – 30: DC in each st across, ch 2, turn
Fasten off after last row and weave in yarn.
Large Pocket: Hook size K
10 FDSC, Ch 2, turn
Rows 2 – 21: DC in each st across, ch 2, turn
Do not fasten off after last row, continue with SC around entire edge, make 3 SC at the corners. Fasten off and weave in yarn.
Small Pocket: Hook size K 5 FDSC, Ch 2, turn
Rows 2 – 21: Repeat rows 2 -21 of large pocket and edging.
Hook size K Chain 48
Row 1: Insert hook in 2nd. ch from hook, pick up yarn, repeat this for the next 4 ch st, you will have 6 loops on your hook, yarn over and draw thru all 6 loops, ch 1 to close the stitch, *insert hook into the hole you just made with the ch st, pull yarn thru (you will have 2 loops on your hook), insert hook in last stitch you worked for the stitch, pick up yarn (you will have 3 loops on your hook), pick up yarn from the next 3 ch st (you will have 6 loops on your hook), yarn over, draw thru all 6 loops, HDC in last st, ch 2, turn
Row 2: Work 3 HDC in each hole you made in row one (hole is from the ch 1 you worked to close each st), HDC in last st, ch 2, turn
Row 3: Pull up loops from the next 5 sts (you will have 6 loops on the hook), yarn over, pull thru all 6 loops, ch 1 to close stitch, *insert hook into the hole you just made with the ch st, pull yarn thru (you will have 2 loops on your hook), insert hook in last stitch you worked for the stitch, pick up yarn (you will have 3 loops on your hook), pick up yarn from the next 3 ch st (you will have 6 loops on your hook), yarn over, draw thru all 6 loops, HDC in last st, ch 2, turn
Row 4: Repeat row 2. Do not fasten off continue to edging
SC around the entire piece, work 3 SC at the corners.
Sew pockets on to the backing. Start at the bottom, make sure the edges of the backing and pocket are aligned. Sew on both sides and the bottom of the pocket. Using a back stitch make divide the pocket into compartments, sewing from top of pocket down to the bottom.
Sew on the small pocket the same way leaving 3 rows of backing between the large pocket and small pocket.
Sew on tool panel 2-3 rows above the small pocket.
Fold top of backing over the straight edge of a plastic hanger and stitch into place.
Weave in ends.
To make the heart appliques I used 2 different patterns, I wanted different hearts.
Well the new year is officially here. At our house that means a year of events to look forward to. But before I can start planning our next event I had to clean up and organize after a very busy holiday season.
My kitchen was a mess! Specially this year when our refrigerator decided to go on the blitz on Christmas Eve. We found ourselves shopping for a new fridge the day after Christmas, when did they get so expensive?
We found one at the Home Depot who delivered it to our home the day after New Year. This gave me enough time to clean and organize my kitchen with time to spare. I figured our new state of the art 30 cu. ft. LG fridge equipped with all the bells and whistles called for new and fresh kitchen accessories to go with the Nesspresso machine, pasta machine, silverware, and other kitchen gadgets I got for Christmas. So what could I make?
I had made several sets of these colorful trivets or hot pads to give friends for Christmas, but I didn’t make any for myself. Now that I had a bit of spare time I decided I should make a set or two for myself. I love this design, the ring makes for easy storage. You can hang them on a hook, a cabinet or drawer pull, or even on the faucet if you choose to use them as dish cloths. Best of all they’re super easy to make, each one took me less than an hour! The shower curtain ring covered in yarn keeps these trivets neat and handy. Make some for yourself or to give as gifts. They make great hostess and house warming gifts!
I’m giving you directions for 2 versions of the same pad, one is done using HDC (pictured above) the other is a front post HDC (pictured below). Either one is cute and easy.
#4 yarn in cotton or material you prefer in the color or colors you prefer
Hook Size J 6.00mm
Plastic shower curtain ring – you can pick up a set at Walmart for under $2. You can get any color, but I prefer the clear ones. This set just needs one ring, you can save the others for other projects.
Ch – chain
Sl St – slip stitch
SC – single crochet
HDC – half double crochet
Magic ring – Ch 1
36 SC in the circle. Pull tight and Sl St to first SC.
Row 1: Ch 2 (counts as 1st. HDC), HDC in next 4 sts, 3 HDC in next st, HDC in next 5 sts, Ch 2, turn (13 HDC)
Row 2: HDC in next 6 sts (until you reach the middle of the 3 HDC point in row 1, this is your increase point), HDC in each st to end of row 1, Ch 2, turn (15 HDC)
Row 3 – 20: Repeat row 2 increasing 2 HDC for each row when you make 3 HDC at the increase point which is the middle of the 3 HDC in the previous row.
If you want a smaller pad you don’t have to make 20 rows, just make less rows. For longer pad continue pattern until you reach your desired length. You can also change yarn at the end of any row if you want a striped design.
At the end of your last row DO NOT fasten off and continue on to the edging.
SC around the entire work including the ring at the top. Work 3 SC at the increase point of the last row and in each corner. Fasten off and weave ends in.
Shower Curtain Ring
Tie yarn at one end of the shower curtain ring. Tie it on the ring itself, not the part where it latches. Leave that yarn free for easier opening and closing of the ring.
SC around the entire ring to the other end. Work SC in the ring like you are working a magic ring. Push stitches together as you work to make them tighter. The idea is to leave no gaps so you can’t see the ring.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
This version uses the same pattern just a different stitch. To get the ridge you will work the entire pad using a front post HDC.
If you’re not familiar with front post stitches here’s a video tutorial from LeisureArts.com
To make this version follow the pattern above, but instead of HDC make the stitches FPHDC (front post half double crochet). End each row with and HDC.